1 LIttle, 2 LIttle, 3 Little Indians, 4 Little, 5 Little, 6 Little Indians.....All STARING at ME!

Our first ambush occured as soon as we were out of the taxi at the train station. Ten of our new best friends all tried to tell us where we should be going. We then learned about the Bureaucracy in India you hear so much about while purchasing train tickets to Agra. We took the metro to tour "Old Delhi" and quickly learned it was a Muslim holiday and were greeted by thousands of our closest friends when we arrived at the Red Fort. Incase you didn't know, standing in line in India means boxing out so no one passes you and the fine art of standing so close to the person behind you that they are stepping on your shoes and the person infront of you is 6 inches from your nose. The security was high with many guards with machine guns and a jeep with a gunner on top. Nate had to assume the role of bodyguard quickly as teenage boys thought Kristy was fascinating and tried to take pictures of her and grab our wrists to say hello. We expected stares and attention as foreigners but nothing to this extent of stares from all ages and both sexes and the picture taking also surprised us. We are thankful for our basketball training as we have used the "Box out" and "Pick and Roll" moves first to prevent the endless amount of people who try to get ahead of you in lines and the second when a group of teenage boys made a beeline for Kristy (NAte planted the pick infront of the group and kristy executed the roll by heading in the other direction). And people say Americans are rude!We then walked to Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India, with a capacity of 25,000 people (I think it was at capacity when we visited). Not a bright idea on a Muslim holiday. There must have been 500 people begging for money and thousands of people celebrating. After escaping that situation, we went to Raj Ghat where Mahatma Ganhi was cremated after being assasinated. Each was very pretty in their own way, but we found travelling here tirersome.The second day we toured New Dehli, which was less crowded and more enjoyable. We saw Safdarjang's tomb, Humayun's tomb, India gate, the Presidents House and Parliament buildings. The area around Parliament and the President's house resembles the area where al the memorials are in DC. The tombs were incredible. Everything is symeterical and would have been amazing in their day however now it is hard to imagine what they were like because the gardens and inside have all been abandoned for so long.We travelled to Agra on the third day in a 2 hour express train ride, which was really nice. Once in our room (our 1 nice hotel in India) we decided to go for a run, Nate got a much needed haircut and we showered before heading out to see the sights. Nate used his excellent negotiating to hire a richshaw for the day so we were able to see the Agra Fort, the Taj Mahal from the river view and the Taj (Inside) all in one day. Some of the more interesting stories are: While we viewed the Taj from the river side we gave pencils to kids sitting, playing quietly. When we walked away, an old man came up and snaked the pencils from the little girl. This bothered us so we walked back to them and asked if there was a problem. The man returned the pencil but as soon as we turned around again he said something & the girl gave him the pencil. The kids then ran up to us and asked for another one so we gave her one more then we heard them run and tell their father what they had received. Another story is trying to get into the Taj there was a huge line. We walked up the foreigner ticket counter paid 15 times what Indians pay and asked if we had to wait in line (We learned the hard way that foreigners do not have to wait in line). They said no but when we wouldn't hire a "guide" (loose sense fo the term) the guard told us to go to another gate. We debated about what to do then saw other tourists walk right up so we followed them and their "guide" and got in with no hassle. Our mistake was to ask at all!The following day we decided to take advantage of the hotel pool. Nate ran, Kristy had a yoga class then the majority of the afternoon was spent by pool writing in the journal, playing "Fill or Bust" and swimming in 122 degree heat. Then we took a 4 hour train to Jaipur.Yesterday was rough getting started because the smells and sights were almost too much for Kristy. Once in the City Palace, we sat and regrouped and decided not to walk around but hire a autorickshaw forthe day and only visit two more forts after the palace. We also realized that all these forts are beginning to look the same. We bought tickets for a 5 hour bus back to Delhi for the next day then had a great dinner on a rooftop with something called"Special Tea" (beer poured into a tea kettle b/c the restaurant did not have a liquer license). The rest of the night was enjoyed in our room with English Premier League soccer and beverages.Tonight (October 29th) we leave for Shanghai at 11:00pm. To be honest, we are looking forward to it!Observations of India- The first word that comes to mind is struggle. Life here is a daily struggle. SO many people are living on the street without their most basic needs being met. This makes the street a common home and thus the sidewalk is not for walking but living and the streets are for foot traffic and all other traffic.Travelling here is also a struggle. There are too many occurances to count when people lied to us or misled us. Some examples: Our hotel in Agra e-mailed us the day before we were to arrive and said the price went up $20. When we got there we showed our confirmation and refused to pay any more (You know us; we were ready to walk before paying anymore) and after talking to 2 managers we received the quoted price. All shopping/transportation is bargaining which is also difficult. We were also mislead at the train station about where to buy tickets so we would use a travel agent. And, you have to fight off rickshaw drivers everywhere you go.We were also not prepared for what the streets would be like. There are places where the smells and sights were bad that we had to fight off being sick. The traffic is crazy with what appears to be no rules and total chaos. It is also a mess of cars, rickshaws (cycle & auto), bikes, walkers, cows, elephants, dogs, camels, pigs and goats. We were in an autprickshaw for 20 minutes and our driver beeped 61 times.As evidence of the struggle, some of the current issues in the Indian times are:The Domestic Violence Law was put in place while we were visiting.The male to female ratio is 111 to 100 however the birth rate is 105 to 100 showing sex selected abortions. This problem is larger in areas where ultrasound machines are used and credit the problem to the Caste and Dowry systems in India.Dengue is also a major problem. Passed on through mosquitos. It affects platelets and the red tape to get platelets to people who need them are too long to cover in this blog.The food has been good! Kristy is in pig heaven in a country where Vegatiarian rules!

Don't go chasing Waterfalls

Our plane leaving Londolozi was much better than the one we took to get there so the Dramamine Kristy and Sue took (right before the flight), actually knocked them out for the next flight from Johannesburg to Livingstone, Zambia.

We walked to the falls (as you can imagine Randy was roaring to go after three days of sitting/eating/sitting/eating). The falls were nice, but this is a low time for them and the better view is from Zimbabwe. In our personal opinion, they are not as beautiful as Iquazu Falls (BR/AR).

Sue and Kristy haggled with some merchants to buy a few handicrafts then we played euker and Fill or Bust while drinking a fabulous bottle of Cab Sav from Argentina (Carmelo Patti). Dinner was great and included amuse boche (a new word for Randy), and lemon sorbet palete cleanser. The entrees arrived with silver domes and when Kristy's was lifted it revealed 3 pieces of tomato and a basil leaf. Everyone's face was priceless as the smirking waiter arrived with the rest of the tomato basil soup.

The following day was mainly spent on the back porch shooing away the monkeys and playing card games while it rained. The monkeys were quite entertaining as they had babies with them and were very persistant. Nate and Randy ran and Kristy (she left at one point b/c the "guards" were unable to keep the Monkeys at bay and two sneaky ones swept in and stole someone's breakfast) and Sue sat by the pool during the morning. Dinner was planned earlier tonight so we could have after-dinner drinks and sit around the porch and play checkers or backgamon. What pretty problems??

The next day we were off to Chobe Chilwero National Park in Botswana and were able to see where four countries (Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia) meet. We arrived to "Make your own Pizzas" and rooms with an outdoor showers.

We took three safari rides at Chobe and some of the highlights including:

• Watching a few herds of elephants bathing and drinking in the river
• Witnessing a false charge by a young male elephant
• Passing a small pride of lions
• Calling out the animals before the guides (Even if they were incorrect, Randy)
• Seeing the Hippos from the water
  

The only major problem we ran into on the entire African trip was crossing back into Zambia we had to pay $100 dollars per person b/c we were not staying in Zambia. Luckily we all pulled our money to make the quota and thus be allowed to travel to the airport to make our flight!

It was hard saying goodbye to Randy/Dad and Sue/Mom but knowing we would see them in 8 weeks made everyone smile.

Hakuna Matata Pictures

Kristy with her new friend. Unfortunately, the rest of our safari pictures are back in PA with Randy and Sue

Climb Every Mountain Pictures

The view of Capetown from the top of Table Mountain (much more rewarding after the hike to the top) and Table Mountain from the ferry to Robbin Island.

Hakuna Matata

What a wonderful phase...It means no worries for the rest of your days...
We flew from Cape Town to Nelspruitt (small town on the eastern part of South Africa) to Londalozi (by private plane). The plane was tiny 9 seats and bounced more than popcorn popping for the 20 minute ride we were all ready to get off by the end. Our safari vehicle was waiting for us upon arrival and not 2 minutes into the ride we saw an giraffe by the road.

Without giving too much away, the lodge was amazing!!

Our first lunch, just to give you an idea, was overlooking the Sands river in what looking like a luxury tree house. We ate gazpacho, spinach gnochi and watermelon sorbet with vodka!! YUMMY!

A typical day on safari was:
5:00 Wake up call
5:30 Tea and Cookies (Nate & Kristy learned early that creeping Monkeys are not interested in the Banana in your hand but the cookies you left on your plate)
6:00 - 10:30 Out on Safari with a break (our favorite morning drink was Hot Chocolate with Amaula (liquer))
12:00 Lunch (typically three courses; all of it amazing)
3:30 High Tea and cake (they had an excellent iced coffee)
3:45 -7:30 Out of Safari (break with drinks and snacks)
8:00 - Dinner (Outside in a Boma with an open fire and everything made on a open fire)

I cannot possible decribe how much fun it was to track (look for droppings, tracks, alarm calls from other animals), spot and watch all of these amazing creatures doing what they do to survive. The vehicles are great fun too b/c you feel like you are outside and bouncing all around. At one point we were following a hyinea to see if it would lead us to another preditor or some fresh prey that we were bobbing and weaving to miss branches with huge thorns on them.

With way too many animals to list, the highlights are:

• Lions (1 male, 2 females, 3 cubs (6 months old) and 3 cubs (6 weeks old) about 6 feet away)
• Rhinos (We were able to get out of our vehicle to view our 1st, saw 3 playing in the mud and others in the prairie)
• Leopard (We watched a mother and two cubs and also saw a female hunt. It was incredible her ablility to be still, creep so low and freeze in a second)
• Buffalo (1st of the Big 5 we saw and closest we came to any animal, ~ 4 ft)
• Elephant (saw a few but I will write about them later)
• Cheetah, Impalas by the hundreds, zebras, giraffes, wart hogs, kudu, crocodiles, wildebeests, nyalas, hippos, etc and tons of amazing birds. Our favorites being the Batelus eagle, King fisher eagle and the Rollers.

After three nights, we were sorry we had to leave and travel to Victoria Falls, but looking forward to our next safari experience in Chobe National Park!!

Paparazzi, Even when Incognito in India

Climb Every Moutain

Our African adventure began in Cape Town after 30 hours of travelling. We were met by Randy and Sue (Kristy's parents) in the lobby of our hotel (Portswood) right by the harbor. Our first view of Africa was walking around the harbor, seeing Table Mountain on one side and Robbin Island on the other. Our first dinner was typical African cuisine. Please do not ask what we ate but it was 5 black pots with different meats, veggies and flavors with a side of rice.

Our tours in Cape Town included:
Day 1

• Driving down the coast to the Cape of Good Hope
• Visiting a penguin colony (must have been 300 penguins unique to S. Africa lying around the sand)
• Walking around the Kirstenbosh Botantical Gardens (expansive, wild (we saw ducks and guinea fowl fighting) and our favorite section was the useful plants)

Day 2

• We INSISTED on walking up Table Mountain although our "guide/driver" didn't think it was a good idea and said it would take 2 1/2 to 3 hours. We started hiking behind a group and quickly passed them to get into our hiking pace. Ok that is not exactly true b/c Kristy was at the front and in usual Kristy style took off with dust flying everywhere. That lasted for over an hour until the steps got larger and larger the day got hotter requiring more rest breaks. Making it to the top in 1hours 45 minutes sweaty, tired and a little smug (to use Randy's verbage).
• We took some pictures, rode the 4 minute trolley down and were on our way to winelands.
• We ate at Spier but heard reports the wine was not great so we headed farther north
• We tasted at two other Wineries: Delaire and Boschendal. We really liked the second winery because your tasting is out under a large oak tree and you choose the wines you would like to try.

Day 3

• We began in Capetown passing Government bldgs., colorful muslem areas but the tour got more interesting when our guide took us to District 6. An area right outside the city that was demolished by bulldozers so "white homes" could be built and 55,ooo "colors and blacks" had to move to townships.
• The second stop was a black township - "Langa". We learned our guide had been a student during the fight against opression and received a heartfelt explanation of the history as well as where the future is going. One natable comment was that when Nelson Mandela was the President he asked both sides to forgive each other. He also visited the wife of the leader who inprisoned him and apologized to her and told her he forgave her. Isn't that incredible. Sue and Kristy had read "A Long Walk to Freedom" prior to the visit and it added so much more to know the background.
• Next stop was Khayelitscha -the largest township with 1.2 million residents. At one point we stopped the car and as far as you could see in any direction were shacks (8X8 with tarp for a roof) and Mandela homes (10X10 cement buildings that are being built and given to everyone who lives in the township). Very humbling experience!
• The Final stop was Robben Island where Nelson Mandela and many other polictial prisoners were held during apathied. The best part of the tour was the maxium security pison where Mr. Mandela was held was led by a former polictal prisioner.

We ended our time in Cape Town with a fabulous seafood dinner at Bahia on the waterfront.

Fla vs. Flu

These are pictures from the Amazon River and the Fla vs. Flu game we attended. That is a 9 month old Alligator.

The Andes and Iguazu Falls

Welcome to the Jungle

We arrived in Manuas in the early afternoon and discovered quickly that 3 degrees south of the equator means...hot...hot...hot. We found an excellent hotel near the water and craft fair called Anna Cassia, changed into cooler clothes and left to find something to eat.

The rest of the afternoon was filled with finding a place to do laundry, confirming our ecolodge, getting cash and laying by the pool. We had an excellent dinner and saw that the city completely shuts down at night.

The next morning we were picked up around 8:30 then headed by boat to the Meeting of the Water (where Rio Negro and Rio Solimes meet and form the Amazon River). Then we had a four hour boat ride to an ecolodge that turned out to be nothing like what was advertised on the website. Danny was to sleep in a Hammock and Nate and I had a room. We knew the lodge would not have electricity, but were surprised the sink and shower were water from the river and emptied back into it. It was also much smaller and simplier than the pictures. Our activities at the lodge included piranha fishing, wildlife viewing, Caiman spotting at night and a jungle trek. Danny quickly received the nickname Jungle Boy by our guide Reuban who was hilarious!

We bet who would catch the first fish and Kristy won by default because both Danny and Nate lost their lines when the "caught" a tree. We each were able to hold a 9 month old caiman, swing from a vine, see a rubber tree and try all types of jungle plants. After 24 hours of no showering Nate and Danny found their own special deorant also. Rueban also held a tarantula that was huge and hairy.

As a group, we decided to leave a day early and miss a canoe ride (with 8 people in a canoe) and a visit a native village (not Indigenous) and actually eat a decent meal not supplemented with protien bars. We had a large pizza and our 87 degree room never felt so good!

Sunday was relaxing with a little touring around and at night we saw 20 minutes of ashow in the Teatro Amazonas. Only 20 minutes because we were in the four level of an old building with no a/c, everything was in Portugese and Danny was not allowed in wearing shorts.

Today was shopping and more sighth seeing. We all leave tonight at 3:30 am to fly to Brasilia then we part ways and Danny is back in AZ by Wednesday morning and we arrive in Capetown Wednesday afternoon. We shared lots of laughs and new experiences with Danny!

At the Copa, Copacabana...

We flew from Foz de Iquasso to Rio de Janeiro the day after a serious airplane crash that occured near Manaus, so we arrived especially early to the airport only to find ourselves the second people there. Apparently, the accident had not affected travel outside the major cities.

We took a bus from the airport to Copacabana and our first view of Rio at night was a large park full of Futbol (soccer) games. We hiked with our packs on to the hostel which was to give us the keys to the 2 bedroom flat we reserved, but were told we would not get the flat but we could have a private room full of bunk beds and a shared bathroom. Danny was not arriving until the following day and it was late, we were tired so we stayed there in a smelly, dirty, room right by the gate so we could here everyone coming and going. It was the fist time in almost a month of travelling that over three months of travelling seemed like too much! Are we getting too old for hostels???

Danny arrived the following day (after two hours of walking around lost with his pack) and we found an awesome flat closer to the beach! The highlights from our four days in Rio were a tour of H. Stern (jewelry maker), Nate and Danny Hang gliding (landing on a beach from 2000 feet up a mountain), seeing the city from Corcovado, finding a cafe that we loved (Chocolate waffles with Nutella and ice cream for breakfast), playing beach soccer with the locals and seeing a Fla vs Flu soccer game in the middle of some crazed fans. The fans started cheering and bouncing around 1/2 hour before the game started and only paused at halftime to sit for a few minutes. Danny has great video footage of one of the goals that he will add when he gets back to the states. The only negative incident was a spark from a flare landing in Kristy´s hair, burning a small patch of hair.

We found Rio to have more characteristics of a big city with lots of people, dirt and had a foul odor. We were expecting more of a beach town and less of a big city. It was also difficult to communicate in Portugese even with our Spanish background. The majority of people were not willing or able to help and smiles were not abounding there. We began to use the thumbs up which is huge here and upon returning we are going to see if we can have it catch on in the states.

Natural Beauty

We are Writing from Manaus, Brasil. And if you think Corpus Christi Texas is hot and humid in the summer I encourage you to come here to compare!!

Since the last e-mail we spent three days visiting the Argentinian and Brasilian sides of the Iquazu Falls. The falls are wider than Niagara Falls and higher than Victoria Falls (or vice versa). The Argentinian side has a huge natural park with walkways which enable you to be on top of some of the falls looking down, then at the bottom looking up and if you take a short boat ride to an island you feel like you are surrounded by the falls. The main attraction is the Garganta del Diablo (Devil´s Throat) which is amazing. On Argentina´s side, you stand right over them and across from them. It took my breath away and we were soaking wet! The Brasilian side has a better panoramic view of the falls and gives more reference to just how large they are. Other sights at the parks included coatis, monkeys, toucans and lots of other birds. They warn all the tourists not to feed or eat around the coatis b/c they can become aggressive. We were famished while walking around in Brasil and I started to unwrap a sandwich we had brought with us when out of nowhere a coati came toward us. Kristy yelled, threw the sandwich in the backpack and bolted; Nate was fumbling with his pills and reacted much calmly. The coatis did continue to follow us for a few steps but by that time we were way ahead of it. There were other spotting of the nasty animal and were not brave enough to eat again until we were back on the bus.

We crossed from Argentina to Brasil in a bus and the most interesiting thing about the border was not that cars were not searched or stopped, but the fact that everyopne stopped at the border to wipe their feet on a mat, then returned to their car and on their way. We never did get an explaination for that one.